1/08/2012

Airbake Ultra By T-Fal 14 x 12-Inch Insulated Medium Cookie Sheet Review

Airbake Ultra By T-Fal 14 x 12-Inch Insulated Medium Cookie Sheet
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We make a lot of cookies. Consequently, the comments, about these cookie sheets, have been interesting. For the record, we do not own any stock in AirBake or any related company and just added 7 more AirBake insulated cookie sheets to our stash, although we didn't buy them here.
We've read the negative, as well as the positive, comments. Each is correct and each is wrong, to a different extent. Everyone seems to be missing the same points. A cookie sheet is a cooking vessel, just like any pot or pan.
You would not, for example, complain about a double boiler, because it wasn't good for making fried eggs; nor would you complain about a cast iron frying pan, because it wasn't good for making soup. The point is that different types of cooking vessels are made, for different purposes, just as different types of cookie sheets are made, for different types of cookies.
Let's see if we can examine at least some of the problems, then try to shed some light on some of the possible cause(s), maybe even suggest some solution(s).
Those who like crisp, firm cookies, such as ginger snaps, sugar cookies or short breads, should not be using insulated pans. For them, the best cookie sheet is the uninsulated one, since it crisps better.
Those who prefer chewy, gooey or cake-like cookies, such as chewy oatmeal, fruit-based or fruit-filled cookies or similar items, should be using the insulated cookie sheets. The insulated sheets create a cookie which is evenly browned, top and bottom, definitely best for thicker cookies.
Those who like a darker bottom, on their cookies or pastry, should be using cookie sheets with darker colors (insulated or non-insulated, non-stick coated or otherwise). Remember, the darker the pan, the darker will be the bottoms of the cookies or pastry, relative to the tops.
Those who like their cookies with lighter colored bottoms should be using cookie sheets with bright, shiny, light-colored surfaces, insulated or otherwise.
If your cookies are spreading too thinly, the fault is not the cookie sheet but the recipe. Cookies, which use only butter or oil, as the fat, will spread much faster, because oil starts as a liquid and butter melts at a much lower temperature, thereby giving up its water content, much sooner. Crisco or other vegetable shortening melt at a much higher temperature, thereby holding moisture longer. That, in turn, allows the cookies to rise, higher, moister and for a longer time.
So, if you like thin cookies, use butter or oil as your only fat. If you like thicker cookies, use only vegetable shortening. If you want something between the two, use a mix of vegetable shortening and butter/oil.
Those who say their cookies are burned and/or sticking, because they used butter, to lubricate the cookie sheets, are correct. The problem is the butter, not the cookie sheet. Cookies are baked at high temperatures, 400'F not being unusual. The milk solids, in the butter, burn, at much lower temperatures than that. If the milk solids burn, that will, also, cause the cookies to stick and burn. The solution is to grease the cookie sheets with a vegetable shortening (such as Crisco) or a neutral-flavored oil (even the spray oils work fine), such as canola, safflower or sunflower, which will not burn, at those temperatures. That applies, even if your only fat, in the cookies, is butter or oil. In fact, if you're making peanut butter cookies, try using peanut oil, as the lubricant, which will impart a more robust peanut taste to the finished cookies.
No matter what you else do or what recipe you use, you must lubricate these and all other cookie sheets, properly, to avoid sticking. We use the bright, shiny versions, without the so-called non-stick coatings. Scratching isn't a problem, because there's nothing to scratch. We've found that only "non-stick" cookie sheets, of anybody's brand, easily scratch.
Also, if you use insulated cookie sheets, do not allow the cookies to cool on the cookie sheet. The insulation holds the heat, causing the cookies to continue cooking, often over-cooking, if they're left on the sheet. Transfer them to a wire rack, as soon as possible. Then, cool the cookie sheets, before reusing them. Adding cold dough, to a hot cookie sheet, is not good for the cookies. You can quickly cool insulated cookie sheets, by running the back side under cold water or spraying the back side, with your kitchen sink spray attachment.

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